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Jennifer Talley is the brewmaster at Squatters Pub Brewery in Salt Lake City, Utah – a State where a 4 per cent ABV (Alcohol By Volume) limit is imposed on brewers as a legal constraint. For this reason alone, there should be no surprise that she was the go-to person to be asked to write this book about Session Beer: Brewing for Flavor and Balance. She’s an accomplished brewer, beer judge and competition winner with a career in creating and bringing to market consistently high quality low ABV beers that don’t knock you off the bar stool. Beers perfect for weddings and afternoons with your friends. Sessionable beers.

Of course, these session beers have been around for a long time in our society. The term might be more recent, but humans have been making highly consumable beers in this genre through history. Just be aware that a session beer isn’t merely low ABV, though. A session beer leaves nothing to hide behind when it comes to making errors. It’s extremely well made beer that you want to drink another and then another throughout the day (or night). And session beers are harder to make than might first appear to be the case. Alcohol, after all, contributes to the flavour of beer. Take away that mask and you better be sure of what you’re doing in the brewery.

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In some ways the experience of a beer (or mead or wine) is very much like standing in front of a framed photograph on a gallery wall. About 90 per cent of what the person experiencing that beer (or photograph) takes away from their encounter involves what they brought to the table as baggage. Think about that for a minute, because I didn’t just pull the idea out of thin air. Why do you think we all have different preferences, likes and dislikes, when it comes to food and drink? Why do two people looking at the same photograph see divergent pictures?

With food and drink, taste plus aroma equals flavour. Added to that, biological differences at the individual level make some people more able to taste specific off flavours; even certified beer judges can be unable to detect obvious flavour flaws in their glass. And one would expect this extends beyond off-flavours into the realm of experiencing complex flavour interactions in a given beverage. Supertasters are an obvious example. After all, why should this sensitivity difference only relate to off-flavours or errors? It doesn’t.

Flavour and preference have a cultural context – the foods and flavours you were exposed to from the womb until this time of your life impact your personal preferences. The World around us shapes our perceptions of good and bad flavours based on exposure and cultural reinforcement. For example, I gag eating herring that another person might savour and crave. Some of us appreciate wine, others don’t.

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It’s fine to say that we live in a Free Country, like that idea somehow means everybody around us are living their lives to self-determined whim without limitation. But, deep down, we all know that isn’t the case. Between taxes, police forces, rules and regulations, there is a minefield of moral and social constraints – the country, any democracy, is not free in the sense those people claim. It is free in a far more general sense.

The way our country is free would be more in the way of a social contract. We are allowed by government to self-determination as individuals in a greater sense. Nobody pulls your child out of school and says “You will be a plumber!” … nobody taps you on the shoulder and says “You are now in the army!”

However, we do have things like picture identification, tax file numbers, business numbers, standards, licensing, accreditation, criminal databases and a whole bunch of other things that strike a balance between you and how far your freedom extends. You are free to operate within the constraints of societies limitations.

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